welcome to the final part of my textile design degree, my final written report has been handed in and from today until May I’ll be drawing developing printing and making to create a colourful wonderland.
After winning the UK heat of the Society of Dyers and Colourists International Design Competition the final was to take place in Hong Kong at the beginning of December. It was a busy time as I’m now in my final year at DJCAD and the week I returned was to be the assessment and presentation week. It was so exciting though, the itinerary was very full and Angela at the SDC had kept us well informed of all that was happening, so it was a cold -5 degrees and very frosty morning Jim and I set off for Glasgow Airport to catch the first leg of our flight to Dubai.
Landing in Dubai where it was warm and very busy and here was our next plane to Hong Kong
very many Emirates planes all in rows!!
and more rows
good bye Dubai and hello Hong Kong
with an eight hour time difference and no sleep we were extremely sleepy by now
but we met with Tracy from SDC who is the Marketing and Communications Director
at the airport and made our way to the hotel
huge docks with row after row of shipping containers
all amazing colours
Our hotel The Royal Pacific and Towers
After settling in to our room
we had a quick change and then met some of the group for our
evening meal at a local restaurant where I soon learned that if I was
to eat I had to master chop sticks
After eating we went for a walk with the group to see the laser light
show, the colours and the reflections in the water were incredible
My little camera didn’t do them justice
After a little sleep and a great breakfast the group met to go and
visit Central Textiles, yarn and denim specialists.
Central Textiles in Zhanjiang a city in China spins the yarn
and this is sent onto Hong Kong for dyeing with indigo.
They produce 9.4 million lbs a month and create 3 million yards of denim for
the clothing companies such as Gap Abercrombie and Fitch, Levis and Guess
This is their VSEP treat system
Vibratory Shear Enhance Process
Yarn is spun in China
indigo dyed floor
washing the yarn
the Vibratory Shear Enhance Process
is a filter system so the water can be reused in the dyeing process
and the excess indigo is collected and reused too
at Central Textile sales office listening to how the
cloth is used
by now the news is out that I have won the Society of Dyers and Colourists International Design Competition.
This took place in Hong Kong at the beginning of December but the work started back in April 2012 where we were set a 4 week brief for 3rd year textile design to explore a trend forecast for the following year. We were to research this along side the SDC brief which was to demonstrate the creative, imaginative and original use of colour in either fashion or textiles and the theme was to to Fashion Colour Responsibly.
The judges will assign marks for each of these four categories.
Basis of Submission
In most instances, the students will be invited to bring their boards and statements to the regional heats. They will meet the judges and have the opportunity to give some background on their project and their use of colour. Where this is not possible alternative arrangements will be made.
Fashioning Colour Responsibly – what will your approach be?
This year’s theme of ‘Fashioning Colour Responsibly’ must also be included in the design and/or the written statement.
The theme highlights issues around sustainability and the challenge of producing environmentally friendly textiles and fashion. Some people consider the textile industry to be one of the most environmentally harmful in the world. (Ideas to consider can be downloaded from the full brief opposite).
So I thought you might be interested in my process ~ here follows my sketchbook development and textile samples enjoy
Textile View is a trend forecasting journal which was full of inspiration and this was one of my starting points. I chose their theme Beyond Nature as it was filled with colour and reminded me of the amazing bugs we have in the D’Arcy Thomson Museum at Dundee University. Ernst Haeckel was another inspiration with his amazing colourful detailed illustrations.
visit the D’Arcy Thomson Museum
tied shibori – shaped with marbles, wooden balls, tied with thread
indigo dyeing – research sustainability across all areas of cloth colouring
sheen created with foils, angelina fibres
embroidery – tufted stitches mixed yarns nylon, monofilament
Inspiration from Poul Beckmann’s Living Jewels a beautiful book filled with amazing photography
pleats – heat pressed
gathers – stitch – elastic
folds – fan – paper – origami
embroidery – free machine embroidery
Smocking use of pleating/pleater
Michelle Griffiths use of shibori
Issey Miyake Pleats Please
pleated fabric by Jurgen Lehl
photos taken in the D’Arcy Thomson Museum
fashion in bold and vibrant colours from Gucci and others
Chanel A/W 2012
Issey Miyake – Pleats Please
Issey Miyake – 3d Dresss
butterflies photographed at the D’Arcy Thomson Museum
folded and pleated fabric
below development from my design inspiration
using mixed media and collage
shapes and marks
stencils and separations
fabric manipulated with heat and coloured with disperse dyes
dyed and pleated
below colour stories which didn’t work so well
dyes mixed ready to print and colour the next samples
stencils cut for the screen-printing
below initial experiments with acid dye and illuminant dye
experimenting with print and pleats
NOTE ~ The best work comes through developing on cloth as the sketch book pages cannot give the same appearance
and texture as silk cloth ~ below building up layers of dye, print and layers of colour onto silk
- sand washed, heavy weight habotai, chiffon and organza
Cloth dyed and ready for over printing
Printing with illuminant dyes
after printing but before steaming
after printing but before steaming
after printing but before steaming
below are some of the many samples I printed after the steaming process it really is like magic
and I am addicted to printing cloth this way
putting the fabric into context using adobe photoshop
dyed printed and pleated
To show my work in context I used a photo of catwalk model Ginta Lapina to give an idea of how the design would look in fashion
to do this I photographed the fabric
you can see below on the context board
Books that I used as part of my inspiration were
Art Forms in Nature – Olaf Breidbach
Living Jewels: The Natural Design of Beetles – Poul Beckmann
Sustainable Fashion and Textiles - Kate Fletcher - information about the lifecycle and sustainability of fashion and textiles looks at practical alternatives, design concepts and social innovation. It challenges existing ideas about the scope and potential of sustainability issues in fashion and textiles and explores human needs and the slow fashion concept. Kate Fletchers’ best practice list explains a number of ways which large corporations can minimize the impact to the environment.
The fabric and yarn dyers handbook - Tracey Kendall
Traditional Scottish Dyers Handbook and how to use them – Jean Fraser
Indigo – Jenny Balfour-Paul – All about indigo
Eco Colour – India Flint – Explains Environmentally Sustainable Dyeing
Natural Dye – Gwen Fereday – explains how cloth can be coloured using using 5 natural dyes and mordants
Memory on Cloth - Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada – Shibori as a means of patterning cloth
Structure and Surface – Cara McCarty and Matilda Quaid – Amazing textures by Japanese Textile Designers combining traditional Japanese craft with new industrial techniques using unusual materials to produce incredible results.
Tinctorial – Bloom amazing images of natural dyeing
Three Dimensional Embroidery – Janet Edmonds
Art of Manipulating Fabric – Colette Wolf
You can see from the books above that I was considering colouring cloth using natural dyes, however after much reading I also realised that natural dyeing would not necessarily give me the vibrant colours I was looking for and that it also has an impact on the environment. With only four weeks to complete I made the decision to use what I was already familiar with. I knew acid dyes on protein fibres would be perfect for this as the silk would have lustre and the acid dyes would give the impact and depth of colour I was looking for. I also researched how companies can use these dyes and still protect the environment.
This was my favourite brief, I so loved working with colour and it has set me up perfectly for my final year at DJCAD. During the summer I created more cloth to make into scarfs to sell, below are some of the close up details of the designs, all inspired and using the same techniques as the above.
I’ve been inspired by many things and people this year and it started back in January whilst still in 3rd year at DJCAD whilst I was researching for the Partnerships Networks and Connection Module with the brief set by the Bradford Textile Society. As ever an oriental theme started to develop ~ inspiration from Textile View, Bloom and library sources were just the beginning
and books were a great source of information
the amazing trend forecasting bloom journals by Lidewij Edelkoort
this one is my favourite
The Society of Dyers and Colourist was the final brief of the year under the Partnership Networks and Connections Module.
inspiration in all things bugs and
Art Forms in Nature ~ Ernst Haeckel
Selvedge magazine has introduced me to many amazing designers over the years, this edition featured Mary Katrantzou a fashion designer from Greece. I adore her use of colour and pattern and the amazing photographer who captured her designs Eric Madigan Heck. His work is outstanding and is an art in itself. He has photographed some of my favourite designers work too. His work interests the part of me that would love to be a stylist, arranging accessories, interiors etc for magazine shoots and photography.
Eric Madigan Heck photography
Mary Katrantzou florals
As a textile designer I often wonder how my designs would be interpreted into the final outcome
the designers choice of model is important on how their cloth will be seen
One model who has cropped up often this year is Ginta Lapina from Latvia
Again the stylist in me is fascinated by the photo shoots she has appeared in
for many of the finest; Kenzo, Yves St Laurent, Hermes, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Chanel,
Versace, Fendi and Prada and many many more
look book for Neiman Marcus
Chanel - autumn/winter 2012-13 collection was another favourite
with the mix of textures from light weight chiffon to woollen yarns
shape colour and form
Reiko Sudo of Nuno Corporation was first introduced to me by James Donald whilst I was studying Textile Art at Dundee College
And has been a constant source of inspiration through the Nuno Books
I was very lucky in November to see her work in real life in Edinburgh at the Dovecot Studios
a whole gallery dedicated to textiles – it was incredible
and Rowan Mersh and his Textile Sculpture is my latest fascination. His work intrigues me and with my latest love of all things 3 dimensional; form and shape within fabric, you can see why
So this ends my inspiration for now hope you enjoy the links I’ve included
there will be a blog post all about my time in Hong Kong very soon, in the mean time here is a press release from the Society of Dyers and Colourists -
Judy Scott, a third year Textile Design student from Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art at Dundee University in the UK, has been named the top new creative talent in the world at the grand final of the Society of Dyers and Colourists’ (SDC) annual International Design Competition at a prestigious awards evening held in Hong Kong in December 2012. The competition is sponsored by Clariant.
Judy was chosen over nine other finalists representing Australia, Hong Kong, India, Ireland, Pakistan, Singapore, Thailand, Bangladesh and South Africa. All entries had to show evidence of using colour as an integral component of the design process as well as incorporating some aspect of this year’s theme of ‘fashioning colour responsibly’. It was felt that Judy’s work, entitled ‘Natures Jewels’, showed a real understanding of the brief as well as an innovative use of colour in the expression of her designs.
Judy commented: “My inspiration came from the plant and insect illustrations of Ernst Haeckel and a collection of bugs held in The University of Dundee D’Arcy Thomson museum; bright vibrant beetles all waiting to be developed into textile design. I developed my designs through mixed media, collage, photography and drawing and translated these into designs suitable for hand printing by mono and screen-printing methods. These would be further developed on the cloth and fabric choice would determine which dye methods I would implement. To keep the beauty richness and depth of the colour from my primary research, acid dyes on protein fibres would give lustre and sheen to the fabric. Colouring the cloth by hand enabled me to mix exact quantities for weight of fabric ensuring no wastage. Large-scale production using these methods could have a greater impact on the environment and I’ve looked at a number of ways of minimising this impact. Re-use and exhaust dye baths and automated dispensing are just two suggestions, both processes I adopted in the studio on a smaller scale. Results were good with the colour palette and the depth of colour achieved matching the intensity of the development work.
Receiving this beautiful trophy along with the amazing cash prize really enforces that I was so right to follow my dreams and come to study at the age of 50 and shows it is never too late to learn. The £1,000 is going into my equipment fund as I am saving to purchase a professional steamer for my print studio. This will enable me to finish my hand printed fabrics professionally in order for me to sell my designs and create accessories for fashion and interiors with confidence”.
Judy goes home with the SDC Colour Design Award 2012, £1,000 cash and the Veronica Bell trophy. The trophy is in honour of the late Dr Veronica Bell, (an SDC past-president) to acknowledge excellence in the field of colour and design.
Talking about her win, Judy said: “I feel very privileged and honoured to have won this beautiful Veronica Bell Trophy. My time in Hong Kong has been filled with spectacular culture and sightseeing, business and information. I have met nine of the most remarkable designers from around the world, it has been an incredible experience added to that, the opportunity to meet, hear and connect with industry experts and make new friends from all over the world. Producing this body of textile designs pushed me to experiment more with layering colour on colour and was great preparation for the work I’m now undertaking in my final year for my degree show in May 2013. Finally I want to say a great big thank you to everyone involved”.
Second place went to Yumna Ali, aged 21 from Iqra University in Pakistan, who impressed judges with her submission entitled ‘Natural Dyes for Kids’. Third place was awarded to Thossapol Kerdkaew, aged 20 from Thammasat University in Thailand with his entry entitled ‘Aggressive Glamour’.
The competition, which is sponsored by Clariant, a world leader in the field of specialty chemicals, is open to undergraduates registered on fashion/textile design courses. Keith Parton from Clariant commented: “Our products enhance every aspect of modern life by providing colour and a vast array of functional effects. It is therefore a great honour to sponsor SDC’s International Design Competition which encourages the creative use of colour in fashion and textile design. The competition has shown over the years that it offers an incredible experience to the students, and acts as a great springboard into the industry. We congratulate Judy and wish all the students the very best of luck in the future”.
The competition judges were Vincy Cheng, Fashion Communications Manager at The Woolmark Company in Hong Kong, Dr Joshua Law, Programme Director at CITA in Hong Kong, and Chris Sargeant, Chair of the SDC Board of Trustees.
Comments Dr Graham Clayton, Chief Executive of SDC: “At SDC we work hard with educational institutions across the world to ensure that the next generation of fashion, textile and design students has a clear understanding of colour. It is always exciting to see the competition entries and this year the standard has been incredibly high. All the finalists have worked hard and on behalf of SDC, I would like to congratulate them all on such innovative and creative designs.”
As the leading educational charity dedicated to advancing the science of colour worldwide, the UK-based SDC encourages the creative use of colour in fashion and textile design and is a committed supporter of up and coming young designers.